Raf Filippi and his buddies swap salt water for fresh and head off into the mountains armed with SUPs and not a lot else for a weekend of bouncing off rocks!

Discovering the wild waters of the French Alps by SUP, a journey through the rivers, rapids and mountains fuelled by fresh air, génépi liqueur and some serious waterfalls!

The idea was simple; a complete change of scenery for a full weekend spent amongst nature without a drop of saltwater. As watermen, this meant we needed H2O of a different kind, and we replaced our usual salty fix with fresh water instead. The liquid at our chosen location barely reaches 10 degrees in September; there are fast streams sneaking between rocks and boulders, plenty of bruises to be had and we planned to be camping by the side of the river at night.

Naturally, the cliché of a bit of fishing at sunset seemed inevitable, and this is exactly what we got during our mountainous adventure. A simple trip with plenty of fresh air to fill our lungs (and boards), and plenty of fish to fill our stomachs! Our crew met on the banks of the Durance River, an ideal base camp to explore several rivers and rapids winding through breath taking landscapes in the region. The Guil and the Ubaye rivers feature several great spots for those looking for more extreme experiences and great rides. Be sure to take the right equipment onto the river though, inflatable boards are the order of the day, as a standard SUP would be totally destroyed in the rapids.

We assembled some genuine adventurers to ensure we survived the weekend; there were seven of us in total all hoping to discover something new, while still coming out alive! Bertrand Fourtais was a natural choice for the trip; he looks more like a bear than anyone I know - a real mountain man! Next was Nicolas Carliez from Annecy, built like a real-life lumberjack we figured we would need him to chop firewood at night. Manu Morel was there to document the trip for us; he’s a skilled waterman and photographer, it was his job to try and make us look good and capture the mishaps too!

Lastly, I made up the motley crew of inexperienced SUP river paddlers.  However, as we valued our safety, we enlisted the help of some professionals. We highly recommend you do this too if it is your first trip down a river. Bruno Hugue is an ex-canoe competitor who runs a rafting centre on the banks of the Durance River. He’s really into paddle boarding now, and his whole family love it. Bruno brought his daughter Marie and son Thomas, both skilled paddlers and also Hervé, another kayaker, so the between the four of them they could ensure our safety, good luck with that!

Once the team was assembled, we decided to hit the most remote spots in order to really get a proper feel for this adventure in the Alps. Bertrand had kindly offered to take care of all the logistics, which includes catching our diners and feeding the gang with his magical spoon. For me, the deal was clear: if you make me spend the whole day bouncing down rapids in cold water, then you need to fuel me at night with wild trout and génépi (a local hard-core herbal mountain schnapps that will eventually make you blind after some years of regular consumption). With everything assembled, it was time to go, and I want to share some facts with you from our journey.

Fact Number One: Wild water riding cannot be undertaken lightly and requires some proper preparation and safety measures. That counts for the craziest of us too, getting punished by a river is far worse than getting washed by a wave. It is not uncommon to get stuck underwater in dangerous rapids, so please seek the advice of professionals before you start paddling! The first surprise for me was the temperature of the water; it rarely exceeds 10 degrees in September.

There was no other option than a proper winter wetsuit, and do not forget shoes under any circumstances. I don’t mean little skinny slippers either; you need proper heavy-duty surf shoes because there is a lot of walking on stones involved and with the current, your toes will suffer, mark my words! I personally think that a leash, even a quick-release safety one, should be forbidden. When riding rapids, the slightest detail such as the loose end of a vest strap can turn into a dangerous trap, getting you stuck under the water for good.

Depending on the water level, rocks are looming right under the surface and will remind you of who is the strongest - and it is never you. Bertrand had luckily supplied us with all the top-notch accessories from ION, including helmets, elbow and knee protectors. Overall, you should try to avoid weak flows, the more water there is, the less you will hit the rocks.  (Basically, don’t do what we did and go in September.) Spring season is by far the best time when the snow melts, the rivers are at their fullest, and you’ll avoid a fair number of rocks and the resulting colourful bruises!

Fact Number Two: The atmosphere is simply magical, and river people are friendly and laidback, the total opposite of surfers. Here, kayakers are happy to share their universe and to help with your safety in the tricky sections. They don’t have tattoos; they don’t wear board shorts and most important of all, they smile at you and say hello when you reach the bank. After three weeks spent surfing in Hossegor, I had forgotten this could exist.

Hervé knows both these universes well and had warned me, but honestly, I had never imagined how cool and welcoming mountain people could be. Wild water does not generate frustrations and requires such a level of personal commitment that it directly impacts the spirit and attitude of those doing it. There are never issues with right of way rules, with differences in the equipment you use or with oversized egos! Everybody is there to enjoy the incredible surroundings and to have a great time, so meeting someone else on the water, whether on a kayak, a raft or a paddleboard, is a moment to exchange knowledge and friendliness.

Fact Number Three: Wild water paddle boarding is a truly extreme sport. Nicolas will be the first to agree, after his first run down one of the tamer rapids known as Rabiou he was given a beautiful 30cm long bruise. Needless to say, it was slightly handicapping for the rest of the trip, but it wasn’t a bad intro to the real aspects of the sport. The small spots where Bertrand took us made us realise that, particularly at the end of the summer, crashing on rocks and riding along rapids will show big time on your body at the end of the day!

We all experienced encounters with stones and boulders, the Guil being the record-holder spot with its super shallow waters. However, the magic of the landscapes, the series of never-ending rapids and waterfalls and the ravines generated by these narrow straights soon make you forget the physical aspect of falling off your board. So many crashes and so much laughing combined is hard to beat. Only Hervé, skimming against the cliffs in his kayak, managed to make it to the end of the trip unscarred.

Every turn in the river there is a new challenge to see who will get through that particular section without falling off. Reading the water and finding the best path between rocks is an entirely new thing we learned the hard way - we’re far more used to salty water and waves. The biggest surprise for me was the level of physical commitment and fitness required to go back up the river, in order to get through the fastest sections, you often have to carry your board and walk continuously upstream.

Between the requirements of the photographer and the little challenges set between riders to see who will get through this or that spot, we spent our time carrying our boards and climbing. We were so exhausted at the end of each day that after some fresh fish and génépi, we did not bother looking to see if there was a bar or club around!

Fact Number Four: When you are far away in the middle of the mountains…you should stay there. Spending your day riding rivers leads you very far away from civilisation once the sun sets, the magic of this kind of trip comes alive. A little tent, a big fire, a couple of beers, some fresh fish and potatoes makes mankind happy. Luckily, we did not even have any mobile network, a rare feat nowadays that is thankfully not just reserved to far away travels and destinations.

This is also where Bertrand made a killing, and I finally understood why Fanatic hired him; wild trout massacres in a record time, setting up of the camp and a dinner worthy of a true Grand Chef. Balsamic vinegar, shallots and potatoes cooked on the hot coal - a must! We are all shattered from the day riding, but what a joy it is to savour these simple moments together surrounded by nature.

As it goes, the evenings have been quiet compared to our usual rhythm, more focused on swallowing painkillers and covering ourselves with Voltaren cream, without forgetting to drink a drop or two of the infamous local génépi; tradition being something we do respect on all occasions! 

Wild water has been a real revelation for all of us, a new activity as fun as it is radical, in spots that are still fresh and flow down from all the mountains. In the Hautes Alpes, the playgrounds offer infinite possibilities, the ambience and the landscapes being unique and addictive. However, you have to remain cautious, as dangers exist all along the river.

Embarking on this kind of adventure with a team that knows the river is vital to avoid serious mishaps and make wonderful memories. You should also always pay particular attention to the weather forecast and, most importantly, the river water levels. It is as important as knowing the tides and the swell for those who ride the oceans. After a few days of intense riding, I am now totally convinced that the potential of this sport is huge.

Whatever your level, age or fitness, the simple act of gliding on a mountain torrent is something you should try at least once. It’s an exceptional feeling that you will never forget. We have all decided to meet again in the spring, when the snow melts, for some new madness and discoveries, more extreme and as pumped-up as ever!

Fact Box

If you start at the Lac de Serre Ponçon, in the region of the Hautes Alpes, you will have access to the Durance, the Guil and the Ubaye.

The lake is a true paradise for water sports in the summer and sits 780 meters high.

The Durance is the most major river of Provence, being 323km in length, with an average flow level of 180m3/s. It ends up in the Rhône.

The Guil and the Ubaye are torrent rivers with much more challenging spots and average flow levels of approximately 200m3 /s.

How To Get There

The closest airport is Marseille, and the nearest TGV train station is in Aix-en-Provence. Of course, it’s preferable to have a car to reach this piece of paradise, but there are buses from Marseille, Nice and Grenoble.

To Rent Equipment And Properly Enjoy Wild Water:

De Bleu à Blanc Rafting – you will find a great selection of rafts, kayaks and of course paddleboards, and also a big SUP board to share the fun with others! They are open from April to October and can also help you with advice about the river conditions too.

http://www.debleuablanc.com

Where To Sleep

Where To Eat

  • Pizzéria-Restaurant "Chez Pierrot Fils" in Crots (3km from Embrun). Don’t miss their French fries ‘à la crème’.
  • "La Forge" in Châteauroux Les Alpes - A menu with both regional specialities and flavours from far way.
  • "L'Edonai" in Baratier offering local cuisine.

Information On Water Levels

http://www.vigicrues.gouv.f

Videos

Whitewater SUP French Alps
By Raf Flippi

Comments